Day Three of Sewalong!

THIRD STEP: Attaching the Lining and Sleeves

Beginning on the right side of page 6, we are going to attach our lining today. Follow steps #1-2 to stitch around the neckline and down the front center edges.

Turn the lining to the inside after clipping the curves. You will press really well in this step. You don't want to rush this. The sign of a well-constructed garment is how the collar lays. You can top-stitch down the front edges and under-stitch around the collar now too.

The final step (#4) will get you ready to add the sleeves and keep you from trying to get two fabrics to behave nicely together.

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Okay, I told you I would let you skip ahead to page 11 if you want to to add the buttonholes. It is totally up to you. Some people may find it easier without the bulk of the skirt on and it probably is. I am just in the habit of waiting til the very last step to make sure nothing needs to be shortened or adjusted before I cut the buttonholes in the fabric. So, I will leave it up to you!

Use the buttonhole guide on the pattern pages to help you space the buttonholes correctly. The first one should start about 1/4" from the top edge. I stitch them all vertically. If you have an automatic buttonhole foot for your machine, this is a very easy step. If you've never used it before, you may need to get out your manual and practice on a scrap. Once you've made one though, you will see how easy it is!

After they are stitched, I recommend using a sharp pair of scissors to cut the slit in the buttonholes. I used to use a seam ripper and I know many do this too but after having it slide away from me once, I never did that again. I also used to use razor blades which have a little more control but my favorite is my sharp embroidery scissors now.

After they are cut, overlap your bodice the way it should be and use a pencil or a marking pen and make a mark through the center of each buttonhole on the placket below. Then you know you have the buttons in the right place when you stitch them on. Go ahead and stitch them on now.

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Now to add the sleeves. The instructions are the same for both long sleeves and short sleeves.

For the first step, you are going to be doing a lot of creases with your iron. Get out your ruler and use some good starch or sizing so you can press some nice creases in your sleeve.

The next step is pretty self-explanatory with the button tab pieces. When you are stitching the two pieces together and get to the points, you will want to leave your needle down and then raise the presser foot and pivot your fabric so that you get a nice sharp point. You will leave the bottom (the un-pointed end) open so that you can turn it right side out. You may want to use a chopstick or something else sharp like that to turn out the corners and points of the tab into a nice sharp line.

Follow step #3 on page 7 to stitch the button tab on the bottom of the sleeve.

Follow step #1 on the right side of page 7 to start stitching the sleeve. (BEFORE YOU DO THIS STEP, if you are making the free add-on of the puffed sleeve, you are going to want to stitch two gathering threads across the top curved part of the sleeve to gather it later to the armhole.)

Turn the garment inside out. Slip the sleeve inside the armscye, right sides together (sleeve will NOT be inside out) and match the center of the sleeve and the shoulder seam. Also, match the seams under the arms. Pin together and then follow step #3 to stitch together. (IF MAKING THE GATHERED/PUFF SLEEVE, you will want to pull the gathering threads to gather the fabric. Adjust the gathers so that all the points mentioned above match.)

On the next page (page 8), you are going to start utilizing those great creases you did before with your iron for the cuffs on the sleeves. Since you are working with a smaller circle around the bottom of the sleeve (especially for the smaller sizes), you may find it helpful to actually be stitching on the inside of the sleeve instead of trying to force it over the arm of your machine. You will basically be folding it all to the inside on the first crease you pressed and then folding just half back out to the right side. You will see 3/4" finished on the outside and 3/4" finished on the inside.

Follow step #6 on that page to attach the button tab.

That's it for now!! Today was the trickiest day with the buttonholes and those button cuffs on the sleeves. Neither one is difficult but if you have never done either before, you might have had to take it slow to concentrate on it. Tomorrow will be easy! We are soooo close to finishing! See you tomorrow!